SmartSection is developed by The SmartFactory (http://www.smartfactory.ca), a division of INBOX Solutions (http://inboxinternational.com)
Published by Dragavan on 2006/10/26 (7022 reads)
Once the characters are made they need to be equipped with what they would have. Also, while the stories are unfolding there will be times that characters will want to purchase or acquire new items. This section deals with the basics of shopping in Karn and mainly contains list of goods and services characters may want or need along the way.
These prices are generic and not specific to any area of the world, but more than enough to get you going in this basic version. The full version of the game (both in print and in the bonus section of the page available to purchasers of the game) has much more extensive and location specific lists.
The following pages are filled with lists and some descriptions of most of the major and some of the minor items that are bought and sold in the Senton Kingdom. Some of the more area specific and rarer items are listed in the Encyclopedia section.
Coins and Conversion Rates
The costs used on these lists use the two main Senton coinage standards of Senton Silver Pennies (ssp) and Senton Gold Dollars (sgd). Although there are several other coins in use (all over the world) the item prices in this section will be listed in one of these two trade standards. Senton is the trade leader in the world, so it is not unusual to see these coins used for world trade.
In the Senton Kingdom there is a standard conversion rate between the two coins. One Senton Gold Piece equals Twenty Senton Silver Pieces, or 1sgp = 20ssp.
Item Quality and Quantity
These lists are just generic standard prices for the lower to medium quality items (usually in larger/capital cities). The prices will vary greatly around the rest of the world, usually depending on how easily available they are. For the most part the prices here are low compared to the rest of the world.
It is also important to note that most stores don't usually keep a large number of items of different kinds in stock, and many items need to be ordered ahead of time and then made or brought in. There are no super malls like we have in the real world today and stores specializing in just shirts or some other items are far and few between. The available sizes of items in stock are also usually limited, especially when it comes to clothing. The available sizes of clothing and items usually reflect the size of the races common to the area.
For example: In an area where Humans and Frenal are most common, you will rarely (if ever) find a shop that has Gnome or Rowgrran sized clothing.
The exact quality of each item is also different all the time (since nothing is mass-produced on an assembly line where everything is made exactly the same). GMs should feel free to alter the lists in any ways they see fit to go along with any changes in the local availability of items or supplies and the local economy.
The Barter System
No discussion of money and shopping would be complete without at least a passing mention of the barter system. Although most lands have currency, they are mainly used in larger town and cities as an easy method of exchange. Many smaller towns and villages rarely even see currency. Most of these places work entirely on the barter system.
Exchange of services or goods for other services and goods is what the barter system is all about. This is often used in communities to share needed goods between those who have it to share and those who need it. Sometimes this is done knowing that they will need their help in the future (much like an IOU), but usually it's a direct exchange of services.
The barter system has no standard rate of exchange and is often based off what is needed more than what is valuable in terms of money. When a person is in need of something they are more willing to trade for it than when they have a surplus of it and when they have a surplus they are more willing trade it away. It is up to the GM to decide what someone other than the player characters will or will not barter for and with, and how much they are willing to trade it for.
For example: A local farmer exchanges some of his eggs and vegetables with the local blacksmith to get his work horse reshod. This is an example of items being exchanged for a service, and no money changing hands at all.
All of the listed items and prices are for the basic items, but many people want to have their equipment and clothing tailor made and customized. Specialization of items (from the simple monogram to the complete overall design) will increase the costs of the items. Some specialization may also increase the functionality or comfort of items for that particular character, but this is all up to the GM. Sometimes even common items will need to be specialized if a rare race in the area, with some strange body shape or size, wants one designed to fit them.
For example: A Frenal happens to be in a Dwarven city and wants to buy a nice pair of leather leggings. Since the common race to the area is Dwarves, finding something to fit a tall Frenal is going to hard. So they are likely to have to get it specially made.
The exact cost increase (or decrease as the case may be) depends on what is being done. This can increase the cost of the items upwards of 500%, but usually it only is around double cost. The exact costs are once again left up to the GM to decide for the area they are in and what they want done.
This section covers the commonly available personal weapons. The size of these weapons are the average Human size ones used by the majority of the races. Most of the time a weapon has to be commissioned weeks or even months before you actually receive it. Some possible exceptions to this are if the weaponsmith happens to have one laying around, you happen to be in a large city with a well stocked weapon shop, or you work for a noble who happens to have one in his personal armory.
This section contains a basic list of all the common weapons. Talk to the GM if the weapon you want is not listed here. Some weapons are listed with some special notes besides the usual Damage, HP, cost, etc. These special notes are usually self-explanatory, but some need some more explanations.
2H: If something lists 2H in brackets it means they are designed to be used two handed. This means that the weapon takes use of both hands and the character can’t use either hand for something else while using this weapon. Some two handed items can be used one handed by combat trained characters if they are strong enough, and these are listed with a strength limit next to the 2H listing. There are some rare occasions where another type of limit is listed to say when a weapon can be used one handed.
Thrown: Weapons that have a bonus (or negative) to a strike when thrown only get those when thrown using the appropriate skills or action types. Basically, this means you have to use the appropriate thrown weapon skill to throw them but you still suffer the effects of the negative (or bonus).
Notes: Some weapons require more notes to explain how they work or other special rules about them. These items are listed with an asterisk (*) after part of their listing and will be listed and explained in a description section following the list.
|4sgd||Hatchet||1D6 Chop||Single sided head. (-2 Strike thrown, STR' range)|
|20sgd||Bipennis [2H < 60 STR]||2D6+2 Chop||Double sided axe head. (-5 Strike when thrown)|
|30sgd||Battle Axe [2H < 50 STR]||3D6 Chop||Single sided axe head. (-8 Strike when thrown)|
|10sgd||Throwing Axe||1D6+2 Chop||Rounded single sided head. (STR' range)|
|Bows & Arrows|
|20sgd||Short Bow [2H]||1D6 Pierce||Bow bent with the natural bend. (400' range)|
|10ssp||Standard Arrow||Standard||Short arrow with wooden shaft and pointed head.|
|4ssp||Cheap Arrow||Standard||Short arrow of lower quality wood. (-2 Strike)|
|14ssp||Barbed Arrow||+1 Damage||Metal headed arrow with backwards barbs. *|
|30sgd||Long Bow [2H]||2D6 Pierce||Bow bent against the natural bend. (600' range)|
|15ssp||Standard Arrow||Standard||Long arrow with wooden shaft and pointed head.|
|6ssp||Cheap Arrow||Standard||Long arrow of lower quality wood. (-2 Strike)|
|18ssp||Barbed Arrow||+1 Damage||Metal headed arrow with backwards barbs. *|
|Crossbow [Reloading requires 2 hands]|
|45sgd||Light Arbalest (Goat's Foot *) [2H < 50 STR]||1D6 Pierce||Takes 2 actions to reload. (400' range)|
|50sgd||Medium Arbalest (Goat's Foot *) [2H < 60 STR]||2D6 Pierce||Takes 2 actions to reload. (500' range)|
|75sgd||Heavy Arbalest (Cranequin *) [2H < 90 STR]||3D6 Pierce||Take 4 actions to reload. (550' range)|
|90sgd||Siege Arbalest (Windlass *) [2H < 80 STR]||4D6 Pierce||Takes 9 actions to reload. (800' range)|
|8ssp||Simple Bolt||Standard||Standard bolt made of a sharpened wooden shaft.|
|4ssp||Cheap Bolt||Standard||Standard bolt of lower quality wood. (-2 Strike)|
|12ssp||Barbed Bolt||+1 Damage||Metal headed bolt with small backwards barbs. *|
|5ssp||Blunt Bolt (-200' range)||Crush instead of Pierce||Flat headed bolt that is slightly wider at the head.|
|5sgd||Knife||1D4 Cut or Pierce||Single sided blade. (-3 Strike when thrown)|
|10sgd||Dagger||1D6 Cut or 1D4 Pierce||Dual sided blade.(-5 Strike when thrown)|
|10sgd||Throwing Knife||1D4 Pierce||Dual sided blade balanced to throw. (STR' range)|
|Maces & Clubs|
|10ssp||Blackjack||1D6 Crush||Sand filled leather tube.|
|1ssp||Club||1D6+2 Crush||Wooden stick thicker at one end.|
|25sgd||Mace [2H < 40 STR]||2D6 Crush||Metal head attached to a shaft.|
|40sgd||Great Warhammer [2H < 70 STR]||3D6 Crush||Metal hammer head attached to a shaft.|
|Spears (All do 1D6 Crush as Staff)|
|5sgd||Simple Spear||1D6 Pierce||Pointed pole. (STR-10' range)|
|10sgd||Short Spear||1D6 Pierce||Short pole with metal pointed head. (STR' range)|
|12sgd||Long Spear||1D6+2 Pierce||Pole with metal pointed head. (STR' range)|
|2sgd||Short Staff [2H]||1D6 Crush||Strait wooden pole.|
|5sgd||Long Staff [2H]||1D6+2 Crush||Strait wooden pole.|
|24sgd||Rapier||1D6 Pierce||Thin round pointed blade. +2 strike w/Pierce.|
|20sgd||Short Sword||1D6 Cut or Pierce||Sword with flat double sided blade.|
|28sgd||Foil||1D6+2 Pierce||Thin square or triangle blade. +1 strike w/Pierce.|
|30sgd||Long Sword [2H < 40 STR]||2D6 Cut or Chop or 1D6 Pierce||Sword with flat double sided blade.|
|42sgd||Claymore [2H < 80 STR]||3D6 Chop or 2D6 Pierce||Large flat double sided blade. -4 strike w/Pierce.|
|15ssp||Brass Knuckles *||+1D6 to hand strikes *||Hard brass item that covers the knuckles.|
Special Weapon Descriptions
This section covers all the weapons and parts from the above list that need a little more explanation or have special rules that go along with them. Anything marked with an asterisk (*) on the list will have some sort of explanation here.
Barbed Arrows and Bolts
These are basically the same as the normal arrows and bolts only with special barbed heads (usually made of metal). They are used exactly like a regular arrow or bolt when fired and when they stick into their target, but they are barbed and don’t come out easy. When they are pushed or pulled out of the target they cause 1D6 Cut damage, and no armor, worn or natural, can protect against this damage.
Trained medical personnel can use the surgery skill to remove them without causing the extra damage. First aid can also be attempted to do this, but at -25% skill level.
This is not a weapon in and of itself. Instead it adds a 1D6 to the different types of hand strikes (like punches and chops) with that hand. They can not be used with a knuckle punch but can be used with the power punch. Use some logic as to what the strike uses to hit with if a ring of metal around the base of all the fingers would strike or not.
These are odd looking crossbows with a bulky gear mechanism built into them. The main part of this gear mechanism is a large crank sticking out of the top of the bow that is used, along with a metal hook that grabs the string, to pull the string into place for firing. This crank mechanism is usually removed before firing, but the rest of the mechanism stays attached, making this a heavy crossbow. These bows require a lot of maintenance to keep them in good working order.
The speed a bow can be loaded depends on what method of loading is required by the bow and how many actions the loading character has. Any special equipment that is needed to load the bow usually comes with the bow and is included in the cost listed on the chart. Each of the loading methods are listed and explained separately on this list. They are Cranequin, Goat’s Foot, and Windlass.
The range listed on the bows is not the absolute maximum they can fire at high angles, but more the high average range they can be fired up to with any accuracy what so ever. Longer shots can be achieved, especially with a large arc to the shot, but the accuracy of such shots drop tremendously. On a basic strait shot over flat land the shooter suffers a -1 to their strike rolls for every 10 feet beyond the listed range a character attempts.
This simple type of bow uses a separate two pronged lever (called the goat's foot lever) to hook onto two built in metal pegs on the side of the bow and pull the string back into place. These bows also have a toe-hold handle on the head of the bow to keep it in place while being loaded.
If the lever is ever unavailable a person can load this bow with their hands, but it is hard on the hands (causing some pain) and takes twice as long. These bows also don't require as much maintenance as the other types of crossbows.
This is a simple looking large crossbow that comes with a complicated pulley and string mechanism used to load it. The bow has a toe-hold on the head (used to hold the bow still while loading) and an attachment on the butt for the pulley and crank system. When the winding crank is attached to the butt of the pulley, two hooks attacked to pulleys hang down on string and are attached to the bow string. It is then wound up to lock the string into position.
This system provides a very powerful single shot, but takes the longest to set up and load. These crossbows can not be loaded without the pulley and string mechanism.
This section covers the basics of buying armor in the land of Karn. Different areas of the world will offer different kinds and costs, but this is all you need to get going. This does not cover barding for horses and all sizes are based off the average Human sizes. Other sizes may cost more or less (depending on size, time, and difficulty to make) and all of them must be specially made since they are not the common sizes.
Coverage, Protection, and Location
The coverage rating a character gets for all the armor they are wearing determines the odds of them being hit directly instead of the armor taking part of the blow. For more information on how armor is used in combat see the combat section.
The protection from basic armor types is broken down into different types, one for each of the physical attack types. The basic types are Cut (Cu), Chop (Ch), Crush (Cr), and Pierce (P) and the others are Burn (B), Electrical (E), and Chemical (C). The way protection works is it’s the amount of that type of damage that the armor takes instead of the wearer from each strike.
Coverage And Location Graphics
The Location Graphic shows an entire humanoid body separated into the different locations, complete with the letter and number markings used to represent them on the lists. Some items will only partially cover these areas, but exactly how depends on the item. The highest total coverage rating any person, or creature, can get is 24. A full rating of 24 means the entire body is covered, including the face. Non humanoid shaped creatures will still have a total of 24 maximum COV rating, they will just be counted and organized differently.
Clothing and Armor
In game terms, clothing is pretty much the same as armor, only most of it offers no level of real protection. Except in certain rare cases, most protection levels should be listed as 0 (10) or something like that (since they offer little or no protection, but take a lot of damage in the process). Since most of it is just the same as the next (except by name and style), I am not going to include lists of clothing in these rules.
Complete Suits of Armor
Each completed suit of armor is made up of the needed components of the same type to cover the areas it covers. Some of these suits don’t cover the hands, feet, or head, but you can get hats, shoes, and gloves to increase the coverage ratings (even though it won't help the protection).
The main reason I added this section was for ease of use and speed of play. The full version of the game has the ability to buy componentized armor (which takes time to calculate out yourself, but is far more open ended). Armor purchased in this form (purely for game purposes) can not be broken into components to be worn separately and mixed with other armor components for bonuses (or to be sold for its parts).
|Cost||Armor Type||COV||HP||Protection (Damage) Ratings|
|6sgd||Padded/Quilt||16 (D-F,H-J)||25||3 (6)||1 (4)||3 (1)||1 (1)||1 (10)||2 (1)||6 (?)|
|12sgd||Soft Leather||18 (D-F,H-K)||40||2 (4)||2 (4)||1 (1)||1 (1)||1 (5)||1 (1)||5 (?)|
|24sgd||Hard Leather||18 (D-F,H-K)||65||3 (4)||3 (4)||1 (1)||1 (1)||1 (5)||1 (1)||5 (?)|
|36sgd||Studded Leather||18 (D-F,H-K)||70||5 (6)||4 (4)||1 (1)||2 (1)||1 (5)||1 (1)||5 (?)|
|125sgd||Chain Mail||20 (D-K)||100||6 (3)||5 (6)||1 (1)||2 (1)||0 (2)||0 (0)||1 (?)|
|750sgd||Splint Mail||20 (D-K)||225||8 (8)||6 (8)||3 (6)||2 (2)||2 (8)||0 (1)||6 (?)|
|1250sgd||Plate Mail||23 (A, C-K)||300||10 (6)||8 (8)||5 (6)||4 (2)||2 (2)||0 (0)||8 (?)|
This section describes the materials that make up the ten basic types of armor listed here. There are several other kinds of armors around the world, but these are the most common.
Padded/Quilt: This is basically two layers of heavy cloth sewn together and stuffed with some kind of filling, usually wool or cotton. It is then sewn some more to keep the stuffing in place. This basically consists of a shirt and pants. This is better against the blunt objects.
Soft Leather: This a well made thin layer of soft leather sewn together into the parts of the suit. It moves well and feels good, allowing no restrictions that normal clothing wouldn't have.
Hard Leather: This a thick layer of more ridged leather sewn together into the parts of the suit. It moves a little stiffly but still feels relatively good.
Studded Leather: This is basically the same as Hard Leather but it has little metal studs punched into it about every inch. The studs add a little extra protection against blades.
Chain Mail: This is difficult armor to make since it consist of thousands of little metal rings looped together to form a flexible metallic fabric. The rings are usually less than an inch across to help them stop smaller weapon shots. It gives the protection of a metal armor with the flexibility of a thick fabric.
Splint Mail: This is a series of small metal plates that are laced together. They are slightly overlapped in most places and no gaps are left between them. However, the lacing usually means they break easier and need repairs more often, but they are also far lighter and easier to move in that other forms of plate armor.
Plate Mail: This is a series of large metal plates that are attached to each other by buckles, straps, screws, and rivets. This basically covers the entire body except for the face, which shows through the helmet.
This section includes a list of shields and then a short section describing what they are. Shields are used as a combination of armor and weapon when a person is trained in them, and just as armor when someone is not. Either way, the hand and arm holding the shield (usually the left) can not be used for anything else that takes dexterity
|Cost||Shields||COV||HP||Protection (Damage) Ratings|
|1sgd||Wood Buckler||4 (D, F-G)||30||8 (2)||8 (7)||6 (3)||7 (2)||4 (10)||4 (2)||6 (?)|
|15sgd||Metal Buckler||4 (D, F-G)||100||15 (2)||15 (10)||14 (2)||14 (2)||2 (2)||0 (0)||6 (?)|
|3sgd||Wood Target Shield||5 (D, E-G)||45||10 (3)||10 (9)||8 (3)||9 (2)||4 (10)||4 (2)||6 (?)|
|25sgd||Metal Target Shield||5 (D, E-G)||120||15 (2)||15 (10)||13 (2)||14 (2)||2 (2)||0 (0)||6 (?)|
|10sgd||Wood Kite Shield||8 (D-I)||60||10 (3)||10 (9)||8 (3||9 (2)||4 (10)||4 (2)||8 (?)|
|28sgd||Metal Kite Shield||8 (D-I)||150||15 (2)||15 (10)||13 (2)||14 (2)||2 (2)||0 (0)||8 (?)|
For the most part a shield is a shield and the list simply explains what they are made of. There are, however, three basic kinds of shields that determine mostly size.
Buckler: This is the smallest shield and is usually about a foot and a half across. They are round and can be held in one hand (or even fastened to the forearm).
Kite Shield: This is a much larger shield that is worn on the arm. They are usually triangular or rectangular and taller than they are wide. They can also be made to bend around the person wearing them a little to add to the protection they provide.
Target Shield: This is a larger round shield that is often worn on the arm. They are usually about two to three feet across.
General Equipment Lists
These are all the equipment lists for common items your basic characters may need. The prices listed are the common larger city prices for the items, when they are in stock and season. Prices in small towns and villages can vary greatly depending on availability of items and the general attitudes of the people selling them.
This is by no means a complete list of items. This is not even as large as the lists in the published book or special section of the page. If there is something a Basic Version character wants and it is not on this list, let the GM decide what a fair price and availability is for it.
These are the basic equipment used for wilderness survival and travel. These are basic costs and tents are sized for humans and Frenal and made out of canvas. For higher quality or specialized items, such at leather tents, it can cost 50% to 200% more.
|1sgd||Light Blanket||A 6 by 3 foot blanket made of basic cloth.|
|2sgd||Heavy Blanket||A 6 by 3 foot blanket made of thick cloth.|
|4sgd||Sleeping Bag (Thick Cloth)||A 6 by 2 foot thick cloth bag made to sleep in.|
|15sgd||Sleeping Bag (Quilt)||A 6 by 2 foot quilted cloth bag made to sleep in.|
|4sgd||Sleeping Mat||A 6 by 3 foot extremely thick cloth mat. Can be rolled up.|
|3sgd||Net Hammock||A 7 by 2.5 foot net designed to be hung.|
|5sgd||Canvas Hammock||A 7 by 2.5 foot canvas sheet and ropes used to hang it.|
|8sgd||Basic Cot (Foldable)||Made of canvas and wood. 6 by 3 feet and 2 feet tall.|
|10sgd||Canvas Pup Tent (1 man)||This is a 6 foot square of canvas stretched over two poles.|
|12sgd||Canvas Pup Tent (2 man)||This is 6 by 8 feet of canvas stretched over two poles.|
|20sgd||Canvas Tent (4 man)||This is 8 by 10 feet of canvas stretched over four poles.|
|24sgd||Canvas Tent (6 man)||This is 8 by 12 feet of canvas stretched over four poles.|
|50sgd||Cloth Pavilion Tent (12 man)||This is 10 by 20 feet of thin cloth stretched over four poles.|
These are items used for lighting in the world. Most of them are made of basic metal or clay, for glass and rarer metals add 50% to 250% to the basic costs.
|1/2ssp||Basic Torch (1 hour)||Piece of wood with oiled cloth wrapped around one end.|
|2ssp||Treated Torch (4 hours)||Same as torch but specially treated to burn slower.|
|1sgd||Sparkwick Candle (8 hours, low light)||Candle that produces only enough light for nightvision.|
|2ssp||Wax Candle (1 hour)||This is the standard candle that comes in many shapes.|
|4ssp||Large Wax Candle (4 hours)||This is the standard candle that comes in many shapes.|
|1sgd||Oil Lamp (8 hours)||Metal lamp that uses oil and has an exposed flame.|
|4sgd||Oil Lamp (24 hours)||Metal lamp that uses oil and has an exposed flame.|
|5sgd||Oil Lantern (12 hours)||Metal & glass lantern that uses oil. Has an enclosed flame.|
|7sgd||Oil Lantern (24 hours)||Metal & glass lantern that uses oil. Has an enclosed flame.|
|6ssp||Flint & Steel||These are simply minerals and metals used to cause a spark.|
|1sgd||Tinder Box||A metal box designed to start fires in and hold flint & steel.|
|1sgd||Candle Lantern||This is a candle holder with a small handle to carry it by.|
|4sgd||Covered Candle Lantern||Same as above, but has an enclosed chamber for the candle.|
|8ssp||Oil (1 pint = 80 hours)||This is the oil used for lamps and lanterns.|
These prices are for the basic types listed. If not otherwise listed, they are usually made of cloth, clay, or wood depending on the type of item. For items made of higher quality materials, like leathers, glasses, metals, or other substances, increase the costs by 50% to 250%.
|Personal Equipment Containers|
|2ssp||Belt Purse||Small tie string cloth purse with belt tie. Holds about1 lb.|
|2sgd||Money Belt||Leather belt with a built in money pouch. Holds about 5 lb.|
|6ssp||Small Shoulder Purse||Small cloth purse with shoulder strap. Holds about 10 lb.|
|4ssp||Small Sack||Small cloth sack without straps or ties. Holds about 50 lb.|
|12ssp||Large Sack||Large cloth sack without straps or ties. Holds about 100 lb.|
|6sgd||Backpack||Leather and cloth backpack with ties. Holds about 25 lb.|
|10sgd||Backpack||Leather and cloth backpack with ties. Holds about 50 lb.|
|15sgd||Backpack||Leather and cloth backpack with ties. Holds about 100 lb.|
|Personal Liquid Containers|
|12ssp||Canteen||Metal container with locking cap. Holds about 1 pint.|
|15ssp||Canteen||Metal container with locking cap. Holds about 2 pints.|
|1sgd||Canteen||Metal container with locking cap. Holds about 4 pints.|
|4ssp||Water Skin||Leather container with sealing cap. Holds about 2 pints.|
|6ssp||Water Skin||Leather container with sealing cap. Holds about 1/2 gallon.|
|10ssp||Water Skin||Leather container with sealing cap. Holds about 1 gallon.|
|18ssp||Water Skin||Leather container with sealing cap. Holds about 3 gallon.|
|2sgd||Dagger Shieth||Hard leather scabbard to hold a specific type of dagger.|
|4sgd||Dagger Scabbard||Hard leather and metal scabbard to hold a type of dagger.|
|4sgd||Small Sword Shieth||Hard leather scabbard to hold a specific type of sword.|
|8sgd||Small Sword Scabbard||Hard leather and metal scabbard to hold a type of sword.|
|5sgd||Large Sword Shieth||Hard leather scabbard to hold a specific type of sword.|
|10sgd||Large Sword Scabbard||Hard leather and metal scabbard to hold a type of sword.|
|4sgd||Small Quiver||Leather quiver with straps. Holds 10 arrows or bolts.|
|6sgd||Large Quiver||Leather quiver with straps. Holds 24 arrows or bolts.|
This is where all the supplies that don’t seem to fit anywhere else on these lists go, and as with other kinds of things, higher quality items can cost more.
|1ssp||Light Bandages (10 feet long)||Woven thin flexible bandage about 2” wide.|
|2ssp||Heavy Bandages (10 feet long)||Thicker and less flexible bandage about 2.5” wide.|
|2sgd||Scalpel||Small blade for surgery. 1 Cut damage. Counts as Knife.|
|1/2ssp||Medical Alcohol (pint)||Toxic to drink, but good at cleaning wounds.|
|15ssp||Lockpick (1 pick)||Tool used, along with tension bar, to pick locks.|
|10ssp||Tension Bar||Tool used, along with Lockpick, to pick locks.|
|1sgd||Lockpick Case||Leather case designed to hold and conceal lock pick tools.|
|10sgd||Lockpick Set (12 picks, tension bar, & case)||All the above tools in a handy carrying case.|
|5sgd||Grappling Hook||Metal hook used to catch surfaces when used with rope.|
|2ssp||Fishing Line (10 feet)||Fairly strong and thin line used for fishing.|
|1/2ssp||Twine (10 feet)||A fairly weak and rough string.|
|1sgd||Rope (10 feet)||A strong woven rope.|
|12sgd||Light Chain (1 foot)||Chain made of thin metal links.|
|25sgd||Heavy Chain (1 foot)||Chain made of thick metal links. Very strong.|
|5sgd||Rope Ladder (10 feet)||Ladder made of rope that can fold or roll up easily.|
|4sgd||Parchment (10 sheets)||Crisp paper made of the skin of sheep or goats. 10" by 1'.|
|8sgd||Vellum (10 sheets)||Soft paper made of the skin of calves or lambs. 10" by 1'.|
|5ssp||Canvas (per square foot)||Flexible fine woven fabric used for painting.|
|2ssp||Chalk Sticks (6)||Dusty white sticks used to write or draw with.|
|1/2ssp||Charcoal Sticks (6)||Dusty black sticks used to write or draw with.|
|4ssp||Natural Quill Pen||Pen made of the quill of a bird, usually a crow.|
|16ssp||Metal Tip Quill Pen||Pen made of the quill of a bird, usually a crow.|
|14ssp||Small Brush||This is a thin tipped paint brush made of only a few hairs.|
|2sgd||Large Brush||This is a thick tipped paint brush made to cover large areas.|
|10ssp||Black Ink (6 ounces)||Dark black India ink used to write or draw with.|
|2sgd||Paints (4 ounces)||Oil based paints used to paint with.|
The Land of Karn: Fantasy Role-Playing Game Basic Version 0.3.5
|Navigate through the articles|
|Combat Skills||World Overview: The Basics of Karn|
The comments are owned by the poster. We aren't responsible for their content.